I have long considered the 1996 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques from Armand Rousseau to be a brilliant wine, though it is a few years since we last met. Here, it had a broody and surprisingly youthful bouquet: dark berry fruit, juniper berries, briary and sous-bois aromas. Captivating...but serious! The palate is medium-bodied with that impressive fruit concentration although it has clearly mellowed in recent years. There remains a firmness and an obduracy, yet also wondrous harmony and compose, almost effortless in nature as it gently fans out on the finish. As I said before, this has a long future. Tasted November 2016. (NM)

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There is grand cru breed and elegance on the airy and perfumed nose that is turning toward the secondary while offering a lovely array of spice elements. The attractively sleek medium-bodied and finely detailed flavors aren't especially concentrated while evidencing an abundance of minerality on the slightly tangy but not really drying finish that delivers solid depth and length. In short, this is a fine if not truly outstanding Rousseau Clos St. Jacques that has arrived at full maturity though it should hold here for many years. Tasted many times over the years with mostly consistent notes.

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