At age 10, Vincent Dancer's 2008 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is showing very well. On the nose, it's still quite shy, unfurling in the glass with scents of almond paste, waxy citrus rind, wet stones and a delicate framing of new wood. It's on the palate that the real excitement is found, as the wine is full-bodied, broad and searingly intense, with a satiny attack, huge concentration and an abundance of chalky structuring extract, built around an incisive spine of acidity and concluding with a long, subtly wood-inflected finish. If the nose can ever match the thrilling palate, this will merit several more points, but in any case, it numbers among the finest wines to emerge from what could be called the "first phase" of Vincent Dancer's career.

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