From Art’s cellar. One-hour decant through a screened funnel. High fill. Cork broke in two but did not disintegrate. Upon decant, a strong aroma of Bordeaux funk had me concerned but it blew off after resting in the decanter. Wine was clear; dark bowl lightening towards the rim which was amber. Thin clear halo. Nose of lead pencil, leather, forest floor and a waft of black currants. In the mouth, tannins all gone, excellent balance. Palate hinted at the currants with leather overtones and a cigar box finish of tobacco and cedar. Finish was medium long. It was time to drink this old soldier.

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The 1981 tastes remarkably velvety and supple for such a young Latour--not that this is a malevolent occurrence--because the excellence, complexity, and richness of the wine are still present. The color is dark ruby, the bouquet offers plenty of ripe cassis and spicy oak, and the flavor is generous, silky, moderately tannic, and long in the finish. This Latour may turn out to be similar to the 1971. Anticipated maturity: Now-2005.

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