Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2006 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has a deep, intense nose with plenty of dark berry fruit (blackberry and boysenberry), mixed with cedar and licorice scents. Saturnine at first, it responds to aeration, opening up with minimal encouragement and gaining more and more intensity. The palate is what you might call a bold and brassy style of Clos de Tart - upfront fruit, muscular, forthright tannin and enormous depth on the finish that fans out gloriously. Think of a blast of trumpets in the Albert Hall and you've got this wine. Immense!

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