The 1999 Grange does not come close to such great Granges as the 1998, 1996, 1991, and 1990. Dense ruby/purple to the edge, with a bouquet of blackberries, mulberries, and floral-like aromas, and medium to full body, the 1999 has an acid punch, but also tremendous layers of fruit and extract. Not massive, but elegant and nicely layered, it requires another 2-3 years of cellaring, and should last for 12-15 years. Penfolds needs to take a long, critical look at its winemaking philosophy. This is the great name in Australian winedom, and they should be a leader and reference point for fine winemaking. Obviously, they have access to some tremendous vineyard sites, and from a budgetary standpoint, they appear capable of doing anything they want. What is the purpose of sculpting wines that are essentially the products of a few oenologists connecting the dots and making wines by the numbers? The lack of naturalness and soul in these wines is worrisome.

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