Claude Dugat's 2006 Charmes Chambertin (from true Charmes, and spared hail, he avows) is enormously deep and dark both in color and in sweet black fruit intensity, peaty smokiness, bitter-sweet chocolate, and charred meat. An invigorating sense of salinity and of fruit skin chew provides counterpoint to the sheer richness and viscosity, but in the finish the whiplash of tannins brings both that richness and the taster's palate to heel. Resin and cedar notes reminiscent of barrel are threaded throughout. For now, at least, this is less focused than the Lavaux, but it takes a back seat to no 2006 in sheer finishing intensity or darkness of personality. I would anticipate it demanding 4-5 years in bottle, after which it will probably remain in robust health for at least another 6-8.

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