Ripe red currant and raspberry, crushed stone, game, and damp bark-like woodsy notes emerge from the nose of Fourrier’s 2007 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques that also displays bouillon-like saline, and meaty depth. Firmly tannic and impressively dense, this lacks the alluring floral dimension one expects from this site and gets so prominently in the 2008 rendition, but it certainly boasts formidable overall intensity and palate-staining berry fruit, meats, and minerals. I would give it a couple of years in bottle before revisiting and expect a dozen or more years of stamina.

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