90
score
whiskyfun.com
December 09, 2017
Kawasaki was a Japanese single grain whisky which was made by the Mercian company from 1935 until 2006 when Mercian became acquired by Kirin holdings and both its distilleries - Kawasaki and Karuizawa - were closed. This is my first Kawasaki and, although I’m no grain enthusiast, I must say I am intrigued... Colour: Amber: Nose: Rich and full of freshly baked breads, toasted seeds, brioche, warm croissant, muesli and a few dark fruits which I suspect derive from the sherry - these notes of dates, fig rolls and dried cranberries. With a little time these really earthy notes begin to emerge, wonderfully old school sherried notes of toasted almonds, aged balsamic, rancio and fruit compotes. Some saltiness, a little gravel, maraschino cherries. So far this is shaping up to be one of the most complex grain whiskies I ever tasted. With water: marzipan strikes first then becomes increasingly waxy with notes of hessian and dunnage. More assorted oils, breads and some spiced fruits. Mouth: Despite the strength this is huge, oily and fruity. You can tell it is a grain whisky but the character is polished, with some surprising notes of wax, shoe polish, brasso, sunflower oil, brown bread and green peppercorns. More of these soft cereal notes of muesli, yellow flowers, buttered toast and a little strawberry liqueur. With water: tamarind chutney, soft brown sugar, some aged rhum and then a few throat lozenges. Beguilingly complex for a grain. Finish: Long and powerful. Big notes of petrol, rosewater, some molasses, a little more rancio, treacle, black pepper and cola cubes. Comments: Quite thrilling to try and surprisingly great. I don’t believe size is overtly related to quality in whisky making, but I wonder if the fact that Kawasaki was a particularly tiny grain distillery may have had something to do with the richness of this character. Although, I should point out, this is so far my only Kawasaki and this complexity may well be due to some excellent refill sherry casks. Either way, I’m impressed. SGP: 551 - 90 points.
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