The return of the name Reserva to Glenfiddich's 21yo after a few years under different titles is also accompanied by an upgrade to its packaging. It is still finished in rum casks for four months, but now has a more elegant presentation, as befits its position towards the top of the distillery's regular range.

There used to be a 21 'Gran Reserva' in France just last year, but it seems that its disappeared. The one we're having on the tasting desk just now is rather called 'Reserva Rum Cask Finish'. Some gentle minds would tell you that this one spent its last four months in casks that had formerly sheltered some rum from Sancti Spiritus, which is located in the middle of Cuba. It's true that the 21 had also been called 'Havana Reserve', which may have displeased a certain administration. Colour: gold. Nose: Cuban rum is light, so I wouldn't swear I'm finding any obvious rumness in this one. Having said that it's a pleasant drop on the nose, light indeed but nicely fragrant, with some heather honey and some nectar, dandelion and other yellow flowers (always rich in sweet nectar). Perhaps a touch of orangey rum, after all. Nice. Mouth: this time the 40% are problematic, they make the whisky thin and drying, with a tea-ish-ness that should have been avoided at 21 years of age. Cold tea, a touch of burnt caramel, some leafiness… Nosedives after just ten seconds, which is regrettable since the core seems to be pleasantly aromatic and well-composed. Nice marmalade and muscovado sugar. Finish: short. A shame, again, the core is nice. Notes of pink bananas, great bananas being a very Cuban thing indeed. Comments: this bottling regime has become obsolete. How many excellent well-aged whiskies are still being slaughtered like this?

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