All sherry matured, this one. There’s been some fantabulous all-sherry Laphroaigs in the past, let’s hope this newish baby will manage to hold a candle to its glorious predecessors. 1967/68 or 1974, anyone? Colour: dark gold. Much lighter than the official pictures suggested. Nose: ah, yes. New tyres and benzine, flints, fresh walnuts, a touch of black truffles (I know that suggests sulphur, but not quite), embrocations and tiger balm, menthol, rather very old Sauternes than oloroso, bicycle inner tube, a touch of raisins, a curious hint of rancio… And no obvious smokiness. Love this nose. Mouth: Laphroaig! A perfect phenolic maelstrom, complex, rich, yet very elegant… I’ve read lukewarm reviews, but I’m relieved, since I’m finding this pretty perfect. Medicinal as it should be, almondy, perfectly gassy (in a way), with the expected tropical fruits (maracuja) and these smoked apples that do not exist in real life, but are very Laphroaig. And here come the seashells, the oysters, the mint drops, our beloved whelks, tincture of iodine… Well, true Laphroaig. Love it, really, love it… Finish: the true level of a malt whisky is to be found in its finish, said a friend whose name escapes me. This finish is perfect. Comments: frankly, this is a relief. This baby’s almost worth its heavy price tag (around £1,000), and I find it very cool that they didn’t propose it in one of those very stupid and very useless decanters that can be seen elsewhere

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