The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée is brilliant, offering up a complex bouquet of mandarin, ripe pears and peaches mingled with almond paste, fresh pastry and nutmeg. Full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's multidimensional and complete, with a layered core, considerable concentration and a long, chalky finish. This is a touch more dramatic and extrovert than this year's Caillerets, but the two wines are of very similar ultimate quality.

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