From a vintage that gets my nod as the weakest of the decade for the whites of the Côte de Beaune, the 1998 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is showing quite well, offering up an exotic bouquet of mandarin, saffron, barley sugar, honeycomb, anise and citrus blossom. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and layered, with commendable purity and precision, concluding with a delicately mineral finish. There's no reason to wait.

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