Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2011 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has a distinctly more herbaceous and leafier nose than the 2012. Here we are walking in woodland around mid-October, the damp ground strewn with brown leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly more rustic tannins than the 2012, but there is tremendous depth here and it seems to gain complexity toward the finish that gently fans out. It is another elegant Clos de Tart that will drink over the next 20 years.

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