The 1989 Montrose can be a magical wine, even if huge variation between bottles makes it something of a minefield for anyone with an aversion to the animal aromatic signatures of Brettanomyces yeasts. This particular example was one of the best I have had (and as one of the best Bordeaux from my birth year, it is a wine I have drunk several dozen times), offering up rich aromas of cassis, dark berries, black truffle, pencil lead, espresso toast and rich soil tones, followed by a full-bodied, ample and layered palate that's broad, sensual and enveloping, framed by sweet, powdery tannins. In fact, my handwritten notes include the words, "best bottle ever!"

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