Producer note: Bernard Dugat, who now manages 10.8 ha with the addition of several recent purchases and some vineyards from within the Dugat-Py family, noted that "2012 gave us the smallest yields ever and 2013 was only 2 hl/ha more than those, which is of course to say not very much. There were also similarities in the growing season as both vintages were very wet though one big difference was in the date of the harvest. In 2013 we began picking on the 28th of September and harvested through to the 4th of October. The fruit was almost completely free of rot so that allowed us to pick more quickly. Because we have such a high proportion of old vines we never have much yield but the counterbalancing benefit is that the fruit is almost always very ripe and riper sooner, which can be a huge advantage in vintages like 2013. Moreover, because the fruit was clean and ripe we were able to use a very high proportion of whole clusters in our vinifications. As to the wines, they're relatively powerful with lots of energy which makes them refreshing to drink. They should age effortlessly as they have everything they need to be long-lived." Dugat noted that the malos were long and slow, indeed to the point that the Vosne villages is not reviewed below. Note further that there is no Gevrey "1er" in 2013 because all of the component pieces were broken out and vinified separately which explains the presence of several "new" wines in the range. I have said this before but it bears repeating: It pays to remember that the Dugat-Py wines are built for the very long haul. As such, in my view it is largely pointless to open them young but if you can't resist then be sure to allow them plenty of time in a decanter first. Dugat said that his 2012s, five of which were revisited below, were bottled in March 2014. Tasting note: A restrained and wonderfully aromatically complex nose displays intensely floral elements, cassis, black cherry and humus along with plenty of that Gevrey sauvage character. There is excellent phenolic maturity to the supporting structure that is already well-integrated on the extract-rich, round and delicious flavors. While there is a relatively refined mouth feel, there is also good muscle and power on the gorgeously long and serious finish. This beautifully well-balanced effort will also require lots of patience.

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