Raphaël Coche-Dury describes this as the most challenging vintage of his career to date, but the 2013 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is showing very well, unfurling in the glass with notes of yellow orchard fruit, mandarin and lemon oil, almond paste and subtle top notes of petrol and white flowers. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and intense, with an ample mid-palate, juicy acids, chewy extract and a long, saline finish. This isn't as structurally taut as the best vintages, so it will be a comparatively precocious rendition of this reliably long-lived cuvée, but it should deliver great pleasure over two decades or more.

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