Krug’s 2000 Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil represents the most recent incarnation of a nowadays insanely expensive bottling from a 4.5-acre enclave that they have made legendary with dedicated bottlings beginning with 1979, and which – unlike this house’s “regular” Vintage Brut – is “declared” nearly every year. A striking aromatic evocation of sea breeze, with oyster and mussel shells corresponds with surprising closeness to the initial aromatic impression made by Krug’s “regular” 2000 vintage bottling. But here, gingerbread and candied lemon rind, vanilla and heliotrope emerge from behind the maritime veil, anticipating the ripeness accompanied by transparency to mineral nuances that is revealed on an infectiously juicy and texturally ultra-refined palate. The interaction of maritime mineral, lemony citric, floral and spice elements carries with subtlety and impressive persistence. This is frankly a bit youthfully austere, and I imagine that it will take another year or two for it to begin to tip its full hand; but there is little doubt that nature dealt it a lucky set of cards. It should merit following for at least 12-15 years. Krug – part of the Louis-Vuitton-Moet-Hennessy luxury goods empire since 1999 – continues to release wines fully worthy of their house’s exalted reputation that reflect inter alia the effects of micro-vinification in barrel and an (in the best sense) laissez-faire and leisurely attitude toward elevage and bottle-aging. (Although – for what little this may be worth – count me among those who find the metalicized labels that now adorn their bottles glitzy, and as such slightly incongruous with their contents). Director Olivier Krug represents his family’s sixth generation, assisted by veteran cellarmaster Eric Lebel and oenologist Julie Cavil. Most Champagne lovers will realize that each bottle from Krug nowadays comes with an identification number enabling the consumer to research its approximate disgorgement date – and

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