Esszencia-like in its alliance of near-gelatinous, creamy viscosity with near-weightlessness as well as its prominent themes of apricot and peach preserves, the Muller 2009 Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese – not slated for bottling before spring of 2011 – is undeniably embryonic, but at the same time already stunningly and intriguingly complex. Suggestions of roasted black truffle and concentrated meat stock and crustacean shell; lily-like perfume that liquefies into a slick, mouth-quickening essence; and an entire cabinet of brown spices help generate a show of inexhaustibly savory potential, irresistible seduction, and inexplicable mystery, to say nothing of nearly indelible persistence and indefatigable potential over the next half century and beyond.

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