The 2021 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru is the most integrated and complex—that's to say, hard to describe—wine in the range. Wafting from the glass with scents of sweet red berries, exotic spices, espresso roast, rose petals and violets, with only subtle hints of the coniferous bass-notes that mark out many of the other cuvées this year, it's full-bodied, pure and seamless, with an exquisitely suave, harmonious palate that effortless integrates vibrant acids, melting tannins and intense retronasal perfume. Concluding with a mouthwateringly saline finish, this is a wine that will delight, even enchant, Burgundy purists.

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