A brilliant wine that numbers among the finest recent renditions of this cuvée, Raveneau's 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux wafts from the glass with a complex bouquet of lemon oil, green apple, dried white flowers, almond paste and iodine. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with terrific depth and concentration, racy acids and exquisite textural finesse. Impeccably balanced, this is a strikingly elegant, complete Butteaux that's somewhat reminiscent of the domaine's 2010, though I suspect it will drink well sooner than that wine.

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