The 1993 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Case Basse is sensational. A spectacular bouquet of tobacco, ginger, soy, roasted meat, black cherry, plum, and toast scents is followed by layer upon layer of fruit, sweet tannin, super ripeness, and gorgeous complexity and symmetry. This is an exceptionally complex, full-flavored Brunello di Montalcino that can be drunk now, or cellared for 10-15 years. This idiosyncratic but brilliant effort is not for everybody (few can afford it), but it represents a wine of great originality and complexity.

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