Roumier’s 2009 Bonnes-Mares is without question one of the wines of the vintage. Firm yet beautifully integrated tannins provide the backdrop for the highly nuanced, expressive aromas and flavors that emerge from the glass. All the elements are in the right place in this extraordinary, moving wine. At times the Bonnes-Mares comes across as very powerful, at other times it is quite sensual. In other words, it is pure magic in the glass. Burgundy fans will flock to the Musigny because of its rarity but there is a very real possibility that the Bonnes-Mares will outshine it over time. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. It is a fascinating to revisit Christophe Roumier’s 2009s from bottle. The lower-end wines are marked by the year to a significantly greater extent than the top wines.

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