The combination of smoky pungency and citric brightness of Trimbach’s 2008 Riesling Clos Ste-Hune is almost eye-wateringly intense – and that’s just on inhaling! In the mouth, the dynamic interplay of energetic, efficacious citrus and white currant with chalk, salt, crushed stone, and apricot kernel will keep you stimulated and intrigued long after the flavors have faded, and that is already a long time. This buoyant, handsomely austere Ste-Hune will not require recharging over the next couple of decades, and in time should put on a truly spectacular display. “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience.

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