Mugnier’s millennial Musigny Grand Cru (that is my tongue-twister of the day) has a transparent bouquet with brilliant delineation, a nose where the spaces between the notes are as important as the notes themselves. Light, brambly red fruit and cold limestone: not complex but very focused. The palate is pure and harmonious with no rough edges, a featherweight but athletic Musigny, with more persistency than the nose suggests. This is a delightful grand cru, although I would not cellar it long-term.

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