The 2009 Clos de la Roche sits on the razors’ edge of opulence. Here the profile gravitates towards the black end of the spectrum. Leather, licorice and sweet spices add complexity and dimension as the wine fills out its broad-shouldered frame. Elegance takes a back seat to sheer power and muscle here. It will be interesting to see how much, if at all, bottle age might be able to tame some of the wine’s more virile leanings. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.

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