Medium ruby. This is nothing short of phenomenal and may even one day outclass the other worldly '99 with it's sexy, stunning aromatic complexity and ultra pure nose featuring layers upon layers of black and red pinot and violot fruit mixed with dried rose petals and rich soil notes plus dazzling spiciness. The moderately structured flavors are buffered by superb extract and the sheer depth and breadth of flavors is amazing. To be sure, this is not especially massive and the tannins are presently not quite as well integrated as with the '99 but the potential here is extraordinary.

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asted at the La Romanée vertical at Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair. The 1998 La Romanée Grand Cru was a Bouchard Père et Fils bottling that came directly from their cellars for this tasting. It was picked on September 23. It has a dark cherry and mulberry-scented bouquet with equal fruité as the 1997, but without the same delineation or personality. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, but the problem here is that the oak seems a little dominant and shaves away the complexity on the finish. It has the substance to last another 15 to 20 years, though it is lacking charm.

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