The 2009 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is a brilliant wine that's evolving at a glacial pace. Unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, crisp orchard fruit, fresh bread, struck match and beeswax, it's full-bodied, deep and satiny, with a concentrated and tightly wound core, racy girdling acids and chalky structuring extract. Long and resonant, this impeccably blanched wine is impressively youthful for the vintage, and while it's immensely compelling today, it will be even better with another decade on the clock. This is one of the wines of the vintage in the Côte de Beaune.