The 2013 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked from the afternoon of October 7 and over the next two days at 18 hectoliters per hectare. It has a heavenly nose with exquisite mineral-rich red cherry, wild strawberry, blood orange and subtle woodland, damp autumn leaf and moss aromas that are extraordinarily complex. It seems to gain vigor and intensity with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, a slightly suppler La Tâche compared to recent years, a wine with an athleticism. There is nothing wasted or superfluous here, a honed La Tâche that is all about tensile structure matched by perfect acidity and an incredibly complex, kaleidoscopic finish that seems so mercurial in the glass, initially offering red fruit then changing its mind and revealing darker and more tertiary notes. In a word: awesome. Production is 1,023 cases. Tasted February 2016. (NM)

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Deep ruby. Once again a highly reticent nose only grudgingly gives up discreet, if attractively perfumed, notes of rose petal, spice and an ultra-pure assortment of red berry fruit scents. Like the Riche this possesses that wonderful inner mouth perfume that makes the Vosne grand crus justifiably so famous. There is wonderful intensity to the sleek big-bodied flavors that display plenty of punch and authority on the impeccably well-balanced and hugely long and very firmly structured finish. While La Tâche is often a very powerful wine, the 2013 version seems particularly so and it would be accurately described as a beautiful combination of power and refinement.

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