They don’t seem to have put the vintage on the label, while this is clearly a single cask. Either 1985 or 1984… But 404 bottles from a barrel or even a hogshead seems a bit much. This is mysterious! Colour: full gold. Nose: I’ve often thought that ex-bourbon Karuizawas used to hint at Yamazaki, and I’ve got that exact feeling now. It’s much narrower than the previous 1984, but in way, this kind of precision is an asset. Vanilla cake, crème de menthe, sawn oak, chlorophyll, just a touch of porridge. But let’s not nose it too deeply at this strength, or we’ll lose our nostrils… With water: like! Old wine cellar, saltpetre, damp chalk, mushrooms… Mouth (neat): it’s champagne! I’m not joking, you’ve got this very spritzy, almost sparkling kind of arrival, with plenty of grapefruits and oranges, plus a very distinct touch of elderflower. Chewing propolis. The jury’s still out… With water: sappier. Resins and more propolis, plus the most concentrated of marmalades. Like, 250 oranges per kilogram (S., just drop cooking please). Finish: long and extremely marmalady. Both oranges and lemons. Comments: a wee beast that requires your attention. It’s not as immediately wow as some sherried Karuizawas, but of course, quality’s extremely high.

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