hogshead, cask #4701, 252 bottles) Five stars The major flaw with these official single cask Ardbegs from 1972 to 1976 is that you know what to expect, and the only surprise could come from a very hypothetical fault. Or perhaps one should invent a device that partially erases your memory, Men In Black style, so that each tasting of one of these Ardbegs remains eternally the first. In any case, cask 4701 is one of those I believe I have never tasted, although it was bottled exclusively for France. Everything comes to those who wait, as they say. Colour: dark gold. Nose: one immediately thinks of an amontillado that would have been aged in Sanlucar, with a very pronounced saline side. New tyres are also back, as well as walnut stain, parsley, rosemary, salted butter caramel, old leather, sweet mustard, cigars... There's also a bit of molasses, in the style of old Demerara rums, notes of slightly burnt cake, ointments, balms, camphor... It's a real whirlwind but the whole remains very solid, firmly rooted in its native terroirs of Islay and Jerez. Mouth: incredibly rich and oily, almost thick, with a very dry sherry, very much on nuts and curry, and also an old vin jaune side. Overall, the palate remains much more compact than the nose, which is quite usual. Finish: very long, with a strong return of peat smoke, ashes, saltiness, seaweed... While tar and salted liquorice come back like a spring in the aftertaste, with some currants. Comment: we have our plum-pudding for Christmas! IN any case, these vintages are unbeatable, we'll have more of then tomorrow.

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