From young vines, Ente’s 2006 Meursault Gouttes d’Or offers among the most refreshing, citric, saline expressions of this great site that I can recall. Toasted nuts and hints of white pepper make for a piquancy that nicely compliments the wines bracing lemon and grapefruit, and salinity and chalkiness leave the palate coated and invigorated. Musky, bitter-sweet inner-mouth suggestions of narcissus and iris, and a hint of lanolin offer further intrigue. This is not especially rich but it is richly rewarding. Ente began picking September 13, finishing in six days. The result is wines of consistent clarity and refreshment, as well as full of nuances that call forth a mineral vocabulary. Use of demi-muids rather than barriques to raise many of the wines here helps ward off any overt woodiness. Eighty percent of Ente’s wine is exported, most of that to the U.S. and U.K.

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