It is 12 years since I last tasted the 1992 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru from Roumier. Perhaps I underrated it back then. Here, it showed much better with leafy red berry fruit, autumnal but much more vivacious than I was expecting. If anything, it coalesces in the glass and gains a sense of confidence. It may be born in a difficult growing season, but this Bonnes Mares wants to disabuse the drinker of his pessimism. And the palate is well balanced with good body, satisfying red fruit, dried herbs, a touch of Earl Grey and pleasant tartness on the finish. Of course, prices have skyrocketed over the intervening twelve years; however, the bottom line is that Christophe Roumier made a very fine Bonnes Mares this year. Tasted June 2017.

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