While not as concentrated or monumental as this estate’s 1989, the 2005 is a fleshy, racy, hypothetical blend of the 1994 and 1998 Haut-Brion, only better. It boasts a gorgeous perfume of citrus oil, lime, honeyed grapefruit, flowers, spicy smoke, and earth, followed by terrific definition, purity, and full-bodied power, but it is not as masculine as its closest competitor, Laville Haut-Brion. The 2005 Haut-Brion will be approachable early, but it should age well for 30-40 years.

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