Lafon’s. 2006 Meursault Gouttes d’Or displays ripe pear and apple, along with a prominent alkaline mineral character. Penetrating, bright, and overtly chalky, this finishes with a long fruit and mineral colloquy, and invigoratingly bitter hints of citrus zest and quinine. I suspect this Meursault – which Lafon was set to bottle last – can be counted on for 7-10 years of interesting bottle maturation. The 2005 – plush wine with a spine – exhibits a saline, carnal intensity that calls to mind Chablis.

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