Released only late last year, Mugnier's 2013 Musigny Grand Cru is still far from true maturity, but it has at least begun a graceful evolution, unwinding in the glass with scents of exotic spices, red berries, orange rind, rose petals, potpourri and sweet soil tones. Full-bodied, ample and velvety, with powdery, melting tannins and lively acids, the cool, late harvest has imparted a cool, crystalline purity to its deep core of fruit. Long and sapid, ideally one would forget it for another decade to see it at the beginning of what will be a long plateau of maturity.

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