One of a small handful of contenders for the title of wine of the vintage, the 1993 Lafleur is beginning to drink brilliantly. Unfurling in the decanter and glass with aromas of sweet berry fruit, kirsch, loamy soil and black truffles, it's medium to full-bodied, muscular and concentrated, its imposing chassis of ripe but melting tannin cloaked in an ample core of thick, concentrated fruit. Uncommonly powerful for the vintage, and displaying none of 1993's tendency to asperity, it is just entering what will be a long drinking window. Held to any standards other than Lafleur's, this might well merit an even higher score, and it would be a great choice to insert into any blind tasting of more sought-after vintages.

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