Both Robert Parker and I have been rather dismissive of the 1970 Leoville Las-Cases in the past, which of course means that at some point someone comes along with a bottle that confounds expectation. Poured just prior to the Wine Advocate's Las-Cases dinner by a generous subscriber, while I was seated next to export manager Pierre Grafeuille, we were both smitten. It had a comely bouquet with degraded red berries, a touch of undergrowth and black stewed tea, delivering impressive delineation, if not power. The palate is medium-bodied, surprisingly elegant and without question the most vigorous example of the 1970 that I have encountered over the years. While not profoundly complex or rivaling the finest examples of this Saint Julien, it is the kind of mature Claret that puts a smile on your face, seeming to be so effortless and refined. Will future bottles be as good as this? Was it a one-off? Who knows, but certainly here we had a Bordeaux that delivers drinking pleasure after 46 years without too much effort.

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