No, not the cheapest wine on the planet, but probably worth it. This 1998 Vosne Romanee les Beaux-Monts has a fabulous bouquet with wonderful delineation, hints of bay leaf and rose-petals infusing the mulberry and wild strawberry fruit, developing a fabulous ferrous note with aeration. The palate is fresh and wonderfully poised, the acidity perfectly judged, utterly harmonious with a cashmere texture from start to finish. There is a slight hickory note developing and enhancing the finish that is amazingly detailed, concluding what must be one of the most divine 1998 Côte de Nuits wines at the moment. (NM)

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