The 1990 Lynch-Bages continues to drink brilliantly at age 32, bursting from the glass with rich aromas of blackberries and crème de cassis mingled with cigar wrapper, loamy soil, burning embers, nori and subtle hints of sweet leather. Full-bodied, broad and fleshy, it's unctuous and enveloping, with a generous core of fruit, sweet but still present tannins and a long, expansive finish. I have always tended to compare the 1990 and 1989 Lynch-Bages, and both wines are among the finest produced in Bordeaux in those years, embarrassing several of the first growths; if I had to choose, I'd likely opt for the 1989 for its greater depth and staying power, but the 1990 is an immensely seductive, hedonistic wine that's very hard to resist.

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