Here is a 2005 Chambertin that rivals the rose petals of Clos de Beze, along with licorice, a ripeness of red fruit, a suggestion of peach jam, and a pungency of cinnamon that turns tactile on the palate. A chocolate richness and liqueur-like fruit intensity in the mouth never lose sight of the rose petals, nor cover up the chalk, wet stone and roasted meat that underlie a sumptuous, sultry finish. “Round,” “rich” and “resonant” gain new meaning with this stunningly opulent Pinot.

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