The 1989 Pétrus is the greatest vintage produced at this estate under Christian Mouiex's administration, and it's one of Winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet's best. It not only rivals but may even surpass Haut-Brion for the title of "wine of the vintage," though I have never drunk them side by side, and the two are so different in style and so high in quality that such a comparison would probably be as futile as it would be pleasurable. Unfurling in the glass with a rich bouquet of dark berries, black truffles, exotic spices, cedar and loamy soil, it's full-bodied, broad and enveloping, with a deep and layered core of fruit framed by beautifully refined tannins and an immensely long finish. Textural and seamless, this profound Pomerol delivers everything that one dreams about when one reads about Pétrus.

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