The 2004 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a monument in the making, unwinding in the glass with a youthful bouquet of lemon oil, fresh apple, vanilla pod, struck match and a light touch of smoky reduction. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, searingly intense and racy, built around a bright line of acidity and laden with chewy extract, still rock solid at the core, concluding with a long, chalky finish that captures the essence of Corton-Charlemagne. Impressively, this is still a few years away from truly entering its plateau.

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(with thanks to Herwig Janssen and Hal Borthwick). This is noticeably reduced and the nose struggles to release the hints of green apple, wood spice and wet stone. By contrast, there is plenty of freshness and verve to the concentrated, sappy and mouth coating flavors that possess superb detail on the hugely long and intensely mineral-driven finish. While the nose isn't exactly what it should be at 8 years of age, I very much like the balance and stunning depth plus it should be noted that this is very much still on the way up.

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