Tasted from magnum, the 1988 Echezeaux Grand Cru belongs to a time when this outstanding domaine produced more rustic fare. Leathery on the nose with touches of incense, one could argue that it lacks a little breeding, although the palate is certainly elegant, with a core of dark-plum fruit that seems to be just beginning to dry around the edges. Drink soon is my advice. Having been bowled over by the sublime 2012s, the Marie-Christine took me through the domaine’s 2011s, which provided a useful opportunity to compare the two vintages, in particular with respect to the Ruchottes-Chambertin.

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