Producer note: In contrast to what Lalou Bize-Leroy did by declassifying all of her reds to villages level status at both Domaines Leroy and d'Auvenay (see Issue 22 for details and reviews), she told me that the whites are "excellent despite the hail damage" and went on to compare them to 1992. The wines were bottled in November and I tasted them in February and as the scores and commentaries suggest, they are excellent, indeed I would say extraordinary. Tasting note: The nose here is rather curious with a matchstick character that is not excess sulfur and the thick, opulent and mouth coating flavors are equally curious. To be sure, this is incredibly concentrated but not especially typical.

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