Aromas of fresh brioche, green pear, waxy citrus rind, iodine and subtly autolytic top notes mingle in an inviting bouquet, introducing the 2009 Dom Pérignon. It's a medium to full-bodied, broad and fleshy wine that's rich and textural, with good concentration and lively acids despite being the ripest rendition in the history of this cuvée. As I wrote earlier this year, while the wine is open and enveloping, there's also enough energy and structure here to promise good mid-term aging potential, something that becomes more apparent as the wine loses a little puppy fat.

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