The 2013 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru has a complex nose: black fruit, a touch of shucked oyster shell and a hint of Chinese hoisin. There is certainly impressive delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit but a little more “gourmand” than the Echezeaux with palpable salinity on the edgy, structured finish. This constitutes a more masculine Clos de Vougeot that will require 4-6 years in bottle.

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