Another sensational white that made my eyes roll back in my head, the 2003 Hermitage Blanc is even more over the top and decadent than the '09. Possessing almost no acidity, it's a flamboyant, massively concentrated, decadent and heady effort that's overflowing with notions of honey, caramelized oranges, currants, licorice and buttered hazelnuts. Staying fresh and lively, it's a monumental Hermitage Blanc that will probably live forever on its sheer concentration.

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