A new cuvée for the Mugneret family debuts with the 2018 Vosne-Romanée La Colombière, a bottling from one of the stonier lieux-dits that cluster around the village, where the domaine owns 86 ares planted in the 1960s over which they now have full control after the ending of an old sharecropping agreement. Wafting from the glass with an incipiently complex bouquet of raspberries, Asian spices, orange rind, black tea and incense, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with velvety tannins, terrific concentration and a long, precise finish. This is a touch finer-boned and even more elegant than the regular Vosne-Romanée this year, and it will evidently be worth a special effort to track down.

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