The Groffier 2006 Chambertin Clos De Beze smells beguilingly and site-typically of rose petals and licorice, dark berries and game. It reflects the challenges of hail in a certain leanness, but is well-concentrated and handsomely lean. Like the Bonnes Mares, one wonders whether this will fill-out with some time in bottle. Insistently pure-fruited, vigorously penetrating, and transparent to spice, carnal, and stony nuances, it certainly promises at least a dozen years of further fascination, and would probably be best left untouched for the next 3-4 years. The 2006 Groffier collection – from fruit picked beginning September 23, and in only four days – was noticeably lower in alcohol than a number of recent predecessors, and was diminished by one-third vis-a-vis 2005, after botrytis- and hail-affected berries had been culled.

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