The older Gran Reservas were utter sherry monsters, so I’m curious. Colour: dark amber. Darker than Ruby. Nose: much drier, less easy, more metallic than the Ruby at first nosing. More fragrant too, with peonies and maybe a little incense, then cedar wood as well as various herbal teas. Rosehip? There’s also a growing meatiness, between bacon and cured ham, Spanish style. After ten minutes: the flowery notes grew and grew. Also walnuts from the sherry. After fifteen minutes: the metallic touches got bigger. Mouth: wrecked! A lot of plastic! This could well be an accident, thank god I have a sample from another bottle… Please allow me one or two minutes (…) Ah, no, indeed, that was an accident. This is a luscious, rich, very raisiny one. It’s almost pure jam! It’s also a little grapey, the sherry’s quite immense. It’s a rather simple palate but it’s good, provided you like heavy sweet sherry. Finish: long, on dried fruits and raisins. Classic. Comments: let’s not be picky, this phat jammy Macallan is or rather was extremely good.

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